Wednesday, February 25, 2009

February in Portugal - Evora Surprise

Click on image to enlarge


It was Carnival in Portugal, and despite the fact that I hate everything about carnival, I did get a 4 day weekend and I have so many, but so many things to get onto the blog that I thought I would just go ahead and do two posts.
Firstly I am dying to write about Evora in Alentejo, Portugal which I was told (keep in mind I don’t take any of this information from history books or travel guides so its not quite official, but it’s the local take on things) that Evora can be considered the capital of Alentejo - Portugal´s central region between Lisbon and the Algarve and stretching all the way from the coast where I am told are the most beautiful deserted beaches, all the way inland to Spain. It is only about an hour and a half away from Lisbon (if you drive within the legal speed limit) but because the event was a big ol’ birthday bash my lovely hosts felt it was better to spend the night.
Though the hotel offer in Evora is rich (Evora Hotel, Convento do Espinheiro, and many more) my hosts selected a gorgeous little hostel smack in the centre of the town, Reisdencial Riviera (Check out their website, it has some great photos and information on Evora). The room had a very local and “vintagy” feel to it, and that is NOT code for shabby. It was large, the decoration was very classical and tasteful, the beds were delicious, the bathroom was not modern, but it was the best shower I have had in a while and everything was nothing less than spotless. Because it’s in the centre of Evora you get a real sense for the liveliness of this University town (one of the oldest in Portugal) and you get to walk everywhere.
If you are one of those people who thrive on history, convents, churches and monuments in general then there will be no stopping you! There is so much to see, do and learn there. There is the MUST SEE of the town – Templo de Diana (A Roman Temple), the cathedral, the Chapel of Bones (takes its name from the fact that its inside is lined with real people’s bones) as well as the University and the city’s main square – Praça do Giraldes. There is just no shortage of all sorts of really interesting things discover.
If on the other hand you just like to hang out and get a feel for the spirit of places feel out the local scenes well than that’s where Evora was a real surprise to me. It is extremely lively and you could even say cosmopolitan. The University apparently has one of the best ballet programs in the country so there are lots of dancers out and about which give Evora a really bohemian feel as well. If you take to walking up and down the little cobbled lanes – which you really must - you will find all sorts of trendy restaurants, bars and clubs.
Did I mention that the centre of town is within its castle walls.....

Friday, February 20, 2009

February in Portugal - Cascais / Lisbon Train line

Right now I am living in a shore city about a half hour from Lisbon called Cascais. You have all heard of Cascais, or at least Estoril - the coast line, the Casino, car racing, golf...a million reasons why tourists from all over flock to Costa do Estoril year round. In case you are planning a trip to Portugal and choose this, as one of many possible fabulous places to stay - the Cascais / Lisbon train line is just something you have to do.
I take the train every morning and all the evenings on which I can't get a ride home, and I am still in love with the "Marginal" that goes along side the train line, starting at the bay of cascais (in the picture above, passing by all the beaches in Estoril, S. João do Estoril, Carcavelos, Oeiras, Algés and finally finishing at Cais do Sodré. I am not exaggerating when I say I have never been on a more beautiful railroad line anywhere!
I have just decided I am going to leave tips, spread throughout the blog for visiting Portugal, so without further adew -tip number 1....
TIP # 1 - CASCAIS /LISBON TRAIN LINE

1. Tickets cost 1.70€ one way and 3.40€ for a return ticket. Once you buy that ticket hold on to it because a ticket man will be walking the train to check all tickets.
2. If there are a lot of you, or you feel you will be taking the train in often you can buy a 10 trip ticket. I just bought one at the beginning of this week and I have a feeling it was cheaper than buying just the one - but I am not completely sure. Those tickets must be validated everytime you take the train, or for each person riding the train. Ask someone at the station for help. In general Portuguese people are super friendly and love to help out!
3. Getting to Lisbon is easy. If you are going from Cascais you just hop on whatever train is about to leave. The train will stop at every station until S. Pedro. If you want to get to Carcavelos or Parede, get off and hop on the next train. It will stop at every station until Lisbon. If you stay on the first train you took, after Oeiras - where all trains stop, it will only stop at Algés, Alcantara and the final stop Cais do Sodre, where you can get any manner of transportation to anywhere in the country, just about.
4. Getting to Cascais, equally easy. There are three trains - the fast track to Cascias, the medium speed to S. Pedro which stops at more stations than the fast track one, and finally the slow train to Oeiras which will stop at every station.
I know this can't read as simple as it actually is, but seriously it is really simple. The main thing is you know that slower or faster the trains only go from Lisbon to Cascais and from Cascais to Lisbon so you cant go wrong. I have helped out some foreigners who panic when they dont see the train stopping!
You know you can drop me a line and I will be happy to give you more details and answear all your questions.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

February in Portugal - Surf's Up!

I am a little annoyed that my first post will be on February 19, and not on, say, January 1. But never mind, because February 19th is my mother’s birthday and so technically this could be a little tribute to "mother". Motherland? Birthplace?....
I am also a little annoyed that the only thing I want to write about today is the fantastic weather. I just cannot get over the fact that it is 17ºc today, and Sunday we could be hitting the big two zero! Plus its sunny and lovely in Portugal today.
I promise to write more about this because I think the event will merrit a post of its own, but I just have to say something about it today. A friend of mine has the low down on a private surfing isntructor who will charge us 10 Euros a piece for a one hour surfing lesson this weekend! Who knew you could surf in Lisbon in February!